Uglich

Saturday 27 August 2016

Just so you know, Russia is about 8 hours ahead of Texas time…

After sailing away from Moscow on Friday we cruised down the Moscow Canal.  We went through several lochs to enter the Volga River.  Saturday afternoon we arrived in Uglich.  Small town appearances and culture like this is the main reason we chose to do a river cruise.  It is charming, colorful and the people were inviting and friendly.  Upon arrival we disembarked and took a leisurely 3 block stroll to the market.  We browsed all the goods and waited for the group tour to catch up to us.  We joined the last group, turned on our listening devices and walked a short distance to the Kremlin.  (this word actually means fortress or walled city, not necessarily associated with government)  Uglich was founded in 1148 and has several beautiful domed churches as well as a lovely park on the waterway. 

 The lecture/tour took about an hour and a half and after we boarded a bus as we were invited to a Russian home.  This was very interesting to see – the neighborhood was similar to the spread out version of houses in Twin Oaks, where we live.  The road however was unpaved and most houses had lush flower/vegetable gardens abutting the homes.  Our hostess welcomed us into her home – there was a small entry way with 2 doors, perhaps what we call a mudroom and then a hallway leading to the kitchen, bathroom and living room. (I think it was probably a 3 bedroom house, though she did not say) The kitchen was of medium size and had a giant modern fridge, stove/oven and microwave.  I did not notice a dishwasher, except the lady who was helping…lol  The living room was cozy but currently had a long table and benches for the 20 of us to sit at.  We learned a bit about the homeowner, Glennis, and how her parents had built this home by hand over a period of 1 year, 50 years ago after the war.  She then offered us the traditional guest drink of moonshine.  We had a toast and I drank my tiny sip.  It was quite smooth, and didn’t burn going down.  The taste was a bit like cherry-flavored fire…lol  She said it was normal for guest to drink 3 shots minimally, so about half the group obliged, including Brian.  I had another half glass, as I did enjoy the taste…

                        B at front gate of Russian home

We had a leisurely stroll back to the ship through the souvenir market – oh, darn, more shopping!  I bought a few more items, including a watercolor painting – the artist spoke a bit of English, so we conversed about painting and parted happily.  I met up with Brian as the end of the market (he went the to grocery store, of course) and he was making balloons for 2 cute girls – we took photos, so Jess could make his choice of Russian girl for wife…lol!  I also made a balloon animal for a 10 year old boy who said he was “boss” of the stall that sold soaps, nesting dolls and other items.  He was so delighted and said “thank you” while his mother suggested he give me Russian soap.  It was a fun exchange of language and culture. 

Uglich was enchanting and I could have stayed longer but we had to board the ship.  Oh sad news – my phone only seems to work in the big cities, so no more Pokemon – damn!  Since we only seem to be touring churches and historical buildings, I am quite disappointed…lol!

After dinner aboard the ship, there was international music trivia.  The questions involved what country the song was from and a tidbit of info about that country; plus you got bonus points for your team if you danced.  I was the only one on my team that was willing, so I basically danced for over an hour…phew! Glad I didn’t shower before dinner…lol!  There was a column on the side of the dance, so I stole a bit from a friend, Jan Fisher, and did a bit of pole dancing…lol!  We did not win however, as we missed 3 questions and 1 team had a perfect score…next time…

Thus ends our first port city – we are cruising all night and an early arrival Sunday in Yaroslavl.  815 tour!!! UGH!!!  

My Kind of Moscow Day 3

A bit about the ship before discussing the day:  We are on the Viking Ingvar which is a riverboat.  It holds 200 passengers and is full. It is a narrow ship and there is no

Viking Ingvar

Our room - pole dancing encouraged

passing in hallways - one must step aside if you run into someone traveling the other direction.  There are 4 floors accessible to the passengers and only 1 elevator.  The inclines are a tad steeper than a regular cruise ship, so we should be well exercised by the time we debark. I would guess we are about half Americans and half British – everybody is super friendly and always introducing themselves and chatting amiably.  Mealtimes are fixed but seating in the dining room is open so you can sit anywhere, with anyone – we like this because we enjoy meeting new people.  The crew is quite friendly and seems to be a mix of Russian, Philippino, and other Europeans – all speak very good English…  Having never sailed on Viking before we had no idea about river cruising…  We will have spent 3 nights in Moscow and sail tomorrow so we will see.  So far it has been an interesting but hectic journey.

However today we were on our own and I had researched a market I wanted to explore and shop.  At breakfast we mentioned to our table mates, Michelle & Charles from Stratford on Avon, that we were going shopping.  Michelle perked up and Charles said we said the magic words – shopping!  So we all decided to go together.  The metro station is about a 20 minute walk from the ship, so we asked about a taxi – the response was “we have a fixed price - $40 – no matter where you travel”  Hmm, so we opted to take the taxi all the way to the Izmaylovsky Market.  An hour later he dropped us in front of an enchanted villiage and gave us his phone number saying he would be happy to pick us up as he live nearby.  

Izmaylovsky Village and Market is a fairy tale – a cross between a Renaissance Faire and Solvang in California.  The architect is all scrollwork, curlicues, crown molding and gingerbread painted in all colors of a Crayola box .  There is a chapel there and multiple weddings were in progress while we visited.  But because it was a Thursday, most of the flea market/shops were closed.  I bought a couple of nesting dolls but was a bit disappointed about the shopping.  Then we met up again with Charles  and he said, “I’ve found the market!”  Michelle was standing in front waiting but Charles said it was because he had her purse, she couldn’t buy anything…lol  The market was marvelous and typical of any outdoor market.  Stall after stall of colorful good but always Matryoshka dolls – they usual Russian woman as well as political figures, Minions and even Star Wars!  There were also lacquer boxes, fur hats, wood carvings etc., etc…  We had a marvelous time and enjoyed our escapade  at Izmaylovsky Market.

It was about 2pm when we decided to return to the ship but this time by Metro.  Charles and Michelle were up for another adventure so we elected Brian our leader and followed him the half mile to the Metro.  Along the way I caught some more Pokémon and leveled up to 13!  We managed to navigate the underground system with no glitches even tho we had to change lines from the Blue to the Green and arrived at the ship’s Metro stop about an hour later.  

300 feet down under

Riding the Metro

Emerging from the underground, we saw a McDonald’s, Starbuck’s and KFC on one side and the mall on the other.  Lol!  We entered the mall because it also included a grocery store.  B explored and bought chocolate & soda and Michelle and Charles bought tonic water to drink with their gin back on the ship.  The taxi line was right outside the mall so I suggested we grab a cab because I was pooped and those damned soda bottles were heavy and would geteven  heavier walking back.  So we asked all the drivers if they spoke English, 3 stepped away while pointing at the other guy…lol!  I showed him a card that had the address in Russian and asked how much – he said 500 Rubles…  Now remember we could have paid $40 if we’d arranged with the ship, so we immediately accepted his quoted price as it was about $9!!! And worth every penny…lol! 

We had plans for a late evening tour, Moscow by Night, that was leaving at 9pm and returning after midnight…  So upon returning to our cabin after shopping we both took a nap.  B fell asleep within 5 minutes of collapsing on the bed but I read a bit until my book kept falling in my lap…

After an interesting meal:  food was good but service was peculiar…we boarded our bus for the night tour.  It turns out it was the same as the day tour except at night and without the “convenience” stop…lol!  However it also included a canal tour which was quite marvelous.  If you have been to
San Antonio Riverwalk boat ride, it was like that in Moscow…  The weather was brisk and the views were pretty terrific.  We got a different view of Red Square and the Kremlin and well as lots of interesting architecture.  The cathedrals here a onion-domed and painted gold.  We took lots of photos and had a very pleasant  evening on the “Moscow Riverwalk” canal boatride.  And even better, there were tons of Pokemon around...the most I have ever caught in one session!  LOL!
It was after 1230am when we began our journey back to the ship.  Lo and behold!  It is only a 25 minute ride if you travel after midnight and before 5am…lol!!!  “Traffic” is always the responded excuse for everything…

Tomorrow is another day and we will sail away from Moscow… 

Day 2 in Moscow

Day 2 in Moscow began with breakfast which is quite yummy.  The chef will make you an omelet  anyway you like and there is a buffet of bagels, pastries, toast, jams, sausages and of course, bacon.  It is also possible to order pancakes, French toast and eggs Benedict.  After breakfast, I unpacked and organized our stateroom – when living in a small space for two weeks, it is important to have, as my dad used to say, “a place for everything and everything in its place”…lol

The weather here is a comfortable 74* however not always sunny and it can rain most afternoons.  So I packed a bag with rainwear and we headed to the bus to explore Moscow.  There were 2 options for tours – one that involved 5 miles of walking and one that did not.  Guess which one we picked?  Lol!  We were unable to get the front seat but the bus has a rear door too, so we sat in the first seat by that door.  The view is much better and I don’t feel so confined by other seats.  Again we traveled into the city center and again the 35 mile drive turned into 11/2 hours.  The guide mentioned points of  interest along the way  such as cathedrals, museums, and hotels where famous people slept…  She pointed out the glimpse of the Red Square and the Kremlin as we passed by but said we would be back later to walk around.  When we finally got off the bus at our first stop, I was ready to walk around a bit.  This was a “convenience” stop (read potty break) and it was free but the guide neglected to tell folks that you needed to collect toilet paper outside the stall – needless to say, the ladies spread that tidbit out so I knew to get “the important papers” ahead of time.  Oh and did I mention it was about 20 steps down to the bathroom?  Moscow is big on stairs – especially to access bathrooms…  so you better have to go…

Our stop included a short walk around New Virgins Nunnery.  It is a lovely compound and also a pokestop…  It was still sunny and nice outside so an enjoyable stroll.  Viking Cruise Lines use the personal listening device so your guide is always speaking in your ear, telling you bits of information, propaganda and droning on – or you can choose not to wear one, like me, and just enjoy the scenery…lol

The Nunnery

Our next stop was the highest point in Moscow and a viewing spot.  Unfortunately the clouds had rolled in and the skies were gray so the view was ok but not for photos.  Also the sights did not include any famous landmarks like the viewpoint in Rome, so it was kind of uninteresting – but there were Pokémon about so all was not lost…ha!

Our next destination was an adventure on the Metro.  Moscow’s subway system is one of the oldest in the world and the underground terrain is a design wonder.  From art deco to Greek columns to bronze statues, it was very interesting.  B and I think this was one of the longest underground escalators we have ever ridden.  It was 330 feet down before we finally stepped off into the tunnel to the train. 

Finally, we were headed to the Red Square but when we emerged from underground it was quite dark out as rain was imminent.  Folks are listening to her lecture and I am following around totally impressed with the sights, taking photos and catching Pokémon.  Then we get to the place to view the Kremlin and it is totally blocked by stadium seating and construction – how disappointing…  When I think of Moscow, it is the onion shaped colored roofs and we never got close enough to get photos…  But Red Square was amazing except our time was short.  When she cut us loose, we had only a half an hour and it was 15 minutes back to the bus.  She pointed in the direction of the Gum Department store but we didn’t get to see it – it seems the 5 mile walking tour would have been better after all…lol

Red Square

Leaving Red Square we headed off to a Russian Folklore Concert…  as it was pouring rain and we were tired, we opted out of the concert.  We still got soaking wet as we had to walk about 300 yards to change buses.  We had to wait a bit for others to show up and then start the 2 hour trip back to the ship because rain and traffic make for triple congestion and double accidents. 

A nice meal and beds awaited us upon our return.  Food aboard the Viking is good but not amazing.  We had chicken Kiev which was tasty but the creamed carrots and rice with peas was the star of the meal – even B thought so, which for those that know, he is a meat and potatoes kinda guy, so those veggies must have been damned good…lol

This concludes Day 2 -  Do svidaniya!

Moscow Arrival

Greetings from Moscow!  That is amazing to say…lol!  Let’s back up to the flights that delivered us here.

From Houston was very smooth and on-time.  Traveling business class allowed us access to the First Class Lounge so we got to wait for the flights with the noble class and not the peons.  Foodl and drinks are included at the lounge so we ate and drank sodas…  The seats on the plane were in the upper deck and quite comfy.   Dinner was served and was actually quite tasty – B had a steak and I had red snapper.  After dinner I watched a movie and then we went to “sleep”.  It is in quotes because even though our seats made into beds neither of us slept much. 

                                     lots of legroom

Our flight left at 4pm and arrived in Frankfurt, Germany 8 hours later (which was then 730am with the time change)  Upon arrival we once again headed for the first class lounge where we heard our plane was delayed 30 minutes…  An hour and half later, we boarded a bus that was a 10 minute ride to our plane – really strange, climbing stairs and boarding the plane from outside, like in the 60’s.  And this was Luftansa!  So we finally left Germany about 2pm and arrived in Moscow around 5pm.  Clearing customs and passport immigration was smooth but another hour involved.  After getting our luggage, we found the lady from Viking who was our greeter for transport.  We waited about another hour for some other passengers and finally got on the bus to go to the ship.  

Moscow Airport

Once aboard the bus, the tour guide explained it was approximately 35 miles to the ship and would take 2 hours to get there??!  This was our first experience with Moscow traffic – imagine the worst congested traffic you have ever driven in and multiply this by 100 and you will have some idea of Moscow traffic.  They told us there were over 5 million cars in Moscow alone.  But on the bright side, we were going so slow I was able to capture 3 brand new Pokemon – my first in Russia!  And Moscow is covered in Pokestops so I enjoyed the ride and leveled up – lol!  (For those of you that don’t  understand, this is a game you can play on your phone but you must be walking or moving locations to gain points.)
                                                 

our view from the bus never changed

When we finally arrived at the ship, it was 930pm local time – the journey from bed to bed was about 28 hours!!  Ahhh – the cabin is small, but the bed is luxurious!    And I am writing this at midnight on the 2^nd night, so I will tell you about Moscow and more in the next blog as my comfy bed is calling…lol!  

And we're off - Monday Aug the 22nd we drive to Houston in a rental car.  As we have lots of luggage, flying there was not an option...  We get additional weight for international travel but didn't want to pay for local travel.  The rental car was cheaper...lol
Our flight is overnight and we have business class seats.  I think on Lufthansa this means bed-like...  I will let you know in our first post from Moscow.  That may be late Tuesday or Wed morning...
Hope you enjoy following along on our trip.  If you log into a gmail address, you can officially follow and kibbutz as we travel...  Don't know how to say good-bye in Russian, so I will just say "see y'all later"

Waterway of the Tsars

B and I are soon off on another Grand Adventure, this one in two parts.  The first part will be with Viking River Cruises sailing from Moscow to St. Petersburg for 13 days.  We are looking forward to seeing Russia from a riverboat - should be a whole different perspective.  We stay 4 days in Moscow and 4 days in St. Petersburg - it will involve many bus tours, and if you have followed us on our other blogs, you know how we feel about tours - AGH!  But I will try to just appreciate the culture and the opportunity and ignore the inconvenience of buses and crowds...lol!

Once we leave the Viking Ingvar, we will stay in St. Petersburg for 2 nights and hopefully get laundry done...lol

Baltic Transatlantic

In St Petersburg, we will board the Princess Regal and set sail for the United States.  B and I were married 35 years ago in Copenhagen and toured Scandinavia for our Honeymoon so this will be an anniversary reprise.  However all of Russia is new to us, as well as Ireland and Scotland.  We are only there for a day, so it will be like dipping a toe in the seas thinking that was swimming in the ocean.  Ireland has always been on my bucket list, so I am hoping this sample of it will leave us wanting more.  We don't intend to kiss the Blarney stone, but still hope to return someday.

The total journey will be 30 days which will involve some clever packing.  Everytime we cruise, I swear to cut down on luggage but this trip will be even harder.  The weather is forecast in the 70's but with daily rain.  So we will need lots of layers, raincoats and more shoes than normal.  I don't want to wear squishy shoes a 2nd day...

As long as the wi-fi is good, I will post as often as possible on this blog.  I hope you will follow along and enjoy our journey virtually, as much as we will enjoy it in reality.